Remote Year (Half Year) Revelation

Been on the road for 6 months now and visited 2 continents & 10 countries. Hoping for 20 by year’s end.  I’ve learned a few things about myself, and the world along the way, but one in particular stands out.  

In the good ole U.S.A., we are so lucky that English is our native language.  English is a global language and the most widely learned second language.  Almost everyone speaks at least a little. (We'll check back on this in Asia)  

We just landed in Belgrade, Serbia on Saturday, and they have a whole different alphabet that I can’t even comprehend!  (See below, Serbian Cyrillic)  But, almost everywhere I go, I see signage in English, menus with English translations, etc.  Almost everyone speaks enough to help you out.  

This is the cafe/bar I'm in right now in Belgrade.  It's called M-Eating.  And as you can see, the sign outside, the signs on the walls inside---all in English.

We are so fortunate.  Traveling the world is a cinch when everyone* speaks your language.  (*Well, not everyone, of course, but plenty enough to get by easily)

This leads me to another thought.  

I think learning a second language should be mandatory in the United States.  From a YOUNG age.  I think foreign language should start in grade school and be part of the curriculum all the way through high school.  

I wish I knew how to speak a second language.  And third, fourth, fifth, etc.  Almost all of my European travel mates know ~3-5 languages.  I wish I was forced to learn at least a 2nd when I was younger.

Now more than ever, we live in a global economy.  Our world is so interconnected.  If we want to be a leader, (heck, even compete) on a global scale---why don’t we push our communicate skills to better relate to other countries?  We shouldn’t rest on our laurels because English is the most common language.  We should be pushing ourselves to learn, grow and adapt.  The rest of the world adapts to English.  And I am so thankful for that.  

Who knows, maybe if future generations were fluent in foreign languages, it would bolster our long term economy?  Perhaps it would create more jobs in the US?  

If anything, it would go a long way in showing the world that we aren’t just selfish Americans who think their s*#t don’t stink.  Cuz, trust me...that's a thing.  :]

Sunset Hill, Riegrovy Sady Park: Prague

Prague likes to party!  Inside, or out, there are plenty of places to congregate with the community and enjoy the summertime vibes.  One of the best places to watch the sunset over the iconic Prague Castle was right near my apartment: Riegrovy Sady Park, aka Sunset Hill.  

It’s a big park, with several beer gardens.  (FYI, open container alcohol is legal in Prague)  Every afternoon and evening, people would gather on the hill for sunset picnics.  

It’s a little touristy, but there are plenty of locals mixed in.  Great vibes, and gorgeous views!  

Check out the scene:

We went one night for Derryl Carter's birthday.  

Just a couple of us, Leah, Derryl and I, but it was super chill!

I took a ton of snaps of the sunset behind the Prague Castle, and it was amazing to see how the colors changed over the course of golden hour.  

Sunset Hill was perfect.  Prague is utopian in many ways!

Skydiving Klatovy, Czech Republic

Jacek, Signe, Kelly, Travis, Miranda, Samantha, Eric, Paige, Brecht, Adam and I!

First time I leapt from a moving plane was in 2002, for cousin Rebecca’s birthday.  We had a huge crew and it was one of the best days of my life!

2004, Perris Valley, California

When I found out Remote Jacek was a licensed skydiver, I knew dive number 2 was somewhere in my future.  Monday, 10 of us ridiculous Remotes drove out to Klatovy to get out kicks flying through the air.

Jacek in his element!

He normally smiles a lot, but I think he is just too overwhelmed with happiness to smile here!

Jacek leading the group in a slow mo Top Gun style walk.

On the first dive, the airplane exit was on the side of the plane, and I dropped out sideways.  In Klatovy, their planes have a rear door.  You have to walk to the edge and look out below you.  This was waaaay cooler than the side drop, and an incredible way to start the jump!

Interestingly, I was not really scared, or even that excited about the jump.  It was weird.  Maybe because I’ve got 2 paraglide flights under my belt, I was a bit more comfortable?  Or, the fact that my tandem dive guy had jumped over 15,000 times?

Don’t get me wrong--it was AWESOME and I loved it.  But, I miss the stomach butterflies that were flying around for my first time!  

Guess I’ll just have to do a solo jump next time!

4 of us were on the first plane -- Kelly, Signe, Brecht and I after the jump!

Here are some pics.  First, Travis, our Remote Year Community Manager...

Next, Samantha...our Remote Year Operations Manager...

Travis and Samantha embracing!  We sometimes call them Tramantha.  Here, they are definitely one entity: Tramantha.

The Tramantha embrace got them all tangled up! 

Eric and Adam got to wear cool diving suits!  I just jumped in my plain clothes.  At least I got goggles though.

Paige coming in hot!

Paige and Adam are on cloud 9 after their landings!

Probably the best shot I got --- Eric landing right near us.

If you've never tried skydiving, I highly recommend it!  It is so beautiful to see the country from so high up.  It's incredible to be able to fly through the clouds.  And, flying through the air is an indescribable feeling.  

Prague Welcome Party Fire Dancers!

Our first week in Prague featured a perfect Prague Welcome Party by our relentless leadership team: Travis and Sam.  Once again, they upped the awesome party ante by bringing in traditional Czech fire dancers!  It was nothing short of spectacular.    

The party was held at the Vysehrad, an old historical fort built on the hill overlooking the Vltava River.  I got there early and was able to take some sunset snaps of the river, marina, etc.  

Unfortunately, I had a photo failure - my tripod broke!  It was a really cheap piece that I bought back in Cordoba and I knew it was chintzy.  BUT, it was very lightweight.  Well, one of the screws got stripped and I could no longer tighten it.  Bummer.  

At least that happened after I got these pics:

The party was a little challenging for me personally, as I’m working west coast hours, and I got a last minute request from a client.  I finished eating, and started working, right there at the party.  Thanks to Arestia for this pic!

Finished up the client request juuuuust in time for the fire dance show!  

Now, I’m working with a busted tripod and need to take long exposure shots.  Super challenging, because I’m trying to hold the tripod still while taking 1-4 second exposures.  But, with some careful hands, I was able to keep it steady.

And then...couldn’t believe it.  My memory card was full.  LOL  Photo failure #2.  

The fire dance show was only about 5 minutes total?  And, half the time, I’m deleting pics from my memory card.  Comical in hindsight, super frustrating at the time!
 

That being said, I think I got some decent shots.  

And, special thanks to Diane Brashear for sharing her video of the show!

Kudos to Remote Year, and Travis and Sam for planning an awesome party, and giving us our own fire dance show!  We are spoiled.  

London: Tate Modern Museum

Every hour, this sculpture is rearranged by Museum workers.  Constantly evolving, kinetic sculpture.

Even though I was barely in London, I saw some stuff.  Only visited one museum besides the British Museum, and it was a standout.  I'd be remissed if I didn't mention the magnificent Tate Modern museum.  

I love museums and galleries just as much for the space itself, as the art collections.  The architectural aesthetic is an equal player in the experience of viewing art.  A museum is one big installation.

The Tate Modern is ginormous and I think I only saw ~30% before work called.  The museum is free, except for the special exhibits.  

The special exhibits were: Mona Hatoum (Palestinean installation and video artist who lived in England most of her life); Bhupen Khakar (modern, provocative Indian painter); and Georgia O’Keeffe (Flower painter).  I decided on Mona Hatoum, whose work seemed the most interesting.

My decision to choose Mona Hatoum was the best decision I’ve ever made in my entire life.  

Ok, maybe that’s an exaggeration.  But, my artistic taste buds were tickled.  Everyone is lining up to see Georgia O’Keefe and barely anyone for Mona.  Suckers!  Sorry, Georgia, your flowers are pretty.  But, Mona is operating on a different frequency that my brain is completely tuned into.  

I'm not the only one who was starstruck by this exhibition: See article: "One of the shows of the year"

In one installation called "Homebound", there are numerous kitchen utensils sitting on table top counters and on the floor in in a huge space.  They are connected by live wires, and an electrical current is pulsating through the space.  You can hear and feel the electricity from two rooms away!  I was spellbound.

Image taken from the Tate Modern website.

Mona's work reminded me a little of Jorge Macchi, abstract Argentinean artist that I saw and reviewed in an earlier post at the MALBA in Buenos Aires.  She even did a few pieces of art where she deconstructed city maps, similar to Jorge.

I was not able to take any pics in the Mona Hatoum exhibit, but her work is electrifying, intriguing, unnerving, nerving, exciting, and fresh.  More.  I want more!  I did buy some postcards though:

After the Mona exhibit, I didn't want or need to see anything else.  My brain was fully satisfied and I had to go back to work.

But, before I left, I squeezed into the packed elevators to visit the top floor of the museum and check out the 360 views of the city.  Spectacular!

And, back into the tube to head to work.

Two big big thumbs up for the Tate Modern!  

A Little Fairy Tale City, Edinburgh - Pt 2

Wandering through the city of Edinburgh is definitely the way to go. So many hidden gems, and cute little shops with punny names: "Thistle Do Nicely", "Procaffeination", etc.  

We came upon this cemetery called Greyfriar’s Kirkyard, which was visually stunning and weirdly warm and welcoming.   Love this skull and cross bones tombstone.

Walking from Old Town to New Town, we saw this local band playing near the Scottish National Gallery.  #bagpipes

My last night in Edinburgh, I was walking home and heard some soulful music coming out of this pub called the Royal Oak.  And, I was drawn in to hear this incredible song by Martin Bowland and company.  I don't know the name of it, and I wish I started recording from the beginning.  But, I'm glad I was able to capture at least the latter part.  Love the women dancing so merrily!

We spent some time at the National Museum of Scotland, which features art, history, science and technology.  They had a special exhibit on Celtic art, that was well worth the special ticket price but there was no photography allowed inside.  You'll just have to trust me---Celtic art is cool.

And, no visit to Edinburgh is complete without a trip to the Edinburgh Castle.

The line to get in was about 40 minutes long and £16.50, (aka $21.50 USD) may be a touch steep, but then again, I did not take advantage of all the Castle had to offer.  

I didn't have enough time to see the Stone of Destiny, or the Renaissance Ladies, or the Great Hall.  But, the National War Memorial was amazingly impressive.  

The National War Memorial houses some of the best stained glass artwork I have ever seen!  No photography allowed inside though.  

This pic is from the Edinburgh Castle Website.  STUNNING STAINED GLASS!

The rounded triangular patch (pictured below) was a dog cemetery for the highest ranking regimental officers.  So cute that they gave their K-9s such a ceremonial spot!

The views from the Castle are just incredible.

3 days had me hooked.  Edinburgh IS a gorgeous little fairy tale city.  

Multiple times during the weekend, I got soaking wet walking around in the rain...but I didn't even mind.  Because the city is just charming.

And they have some of the classiest toilets I've seen.  I think we need to bring wood back.

The last thing I’ll mention about Edinburgh is that there is a really strong pub culture.  If you like drinking pints, and tasting fine whiskey, this is the place for you.  

Just don’t end up like this guy.

Bye bye, Edinburgh.  Back to London on the train...beautiful Scottish countryside!

A Little Fairy Tale City, Edinburgh - Pt 1

I was seeing London for a month, but totally cheating on her.  I couldn’t resist the Sloandog Millionaire challenge in Wales, and Paris was peacocking across the pond.  Then, I found out that Jim and Shauna Finn were going to Edinburgh, Scotland and once again, I was leaving London for another city.  

Remote Year Heleri told me that “Edinburgh is a magical, fairy tale little city.”  The art and architecture is medieval & charming and the sound of bagpipes mixed with seagulls is omnipresent.  

Did you know that Scotland’s national animal is the unicorn, since the late 1300s?  They believed that the unicorn was the natural enemy of the lion, and had the strength to defeat lions, and even elephants.  The Scots love myths, legends and lore!  

Also, did you know that much of the Harry Potter books were written by JK Rowling in Edinburgh?  Jim and Shauna are huge fans and visited the Elephant Cafe.

Edinburgh is a coastal city with a maritime climate.  Grey skies are par for the course.  (Get it, golf reference?  ~Golf was invented in Scotland)  

But, the cloudy grey backdrop compliments the faded stone buildings that are covered by a layer of bright green moss.

One of the first things we did when we arrived, was wander up to Calton Hill, which is the headquarters of the Scottish Government, and features several impressive monuments and structures that shine bright in front of the gorgeous cityscape backdrop.  Another amazing photo spot.

We also hiked Sir Arthur’s Seat, the main mountain near the city center that provides panoramic views of the entire city. (Including Calton Hill)  

This is a short hike (~45-60 mins to the peak), and a must-do for any tourist.  It's a pretty easy hike, with only a little rockiness near the top.  

Shauna and Jim

We timed our hike to culminate with sunset at the peak, but the fog and rain rolled in and killed my photo game.  Or, it made the photos more ominous and therefore better?  Still a sweet trek.  

David McLaughlin, loungin' at the top.

David McLaughlin, peakin'.  The other people were trying to get out of my photo opp...I told them not to worry, but they insisted on trying to duck.

A Little Fairy Tale City, Edinburgh - Part 2 features the National Gallery of Scotland, Greyfriars Kirkland Cemetary and the famous Edinburgh Castle.  Stay tuned...

If you'd like to see my favorite snaps from the trip, check them out on Facebook.

Street Art by Free Mozaik in Prague

Not sure what PAIN HICSL is up top, but I guess just someone's tag.

I love street art.  And, I love mosaics.  One of the first things I happened upon in Prague (after my sleepless night travel nap) was this mosaic graffiti wall by the artist Free Mozaik.  This is located on Chorvatska, ~6 blocks from my new place.  

Prague is one of those places that gets a ton of hype.  “I’ve been to 30 countries and Prague is my favorite!”  I hear things like that all the time. 

I’ve been here for 3 days and can already say --- Prague lives up to the hype in SO many ways.  And, I’ve juuust scratched the surface.  

It’s little hidden gems like this mosaic wall that make Prague so intriguing.  (Well, that and the ~2,000 castles)  It seems like every corner you turn, there's some wondrous sight to see.  The city feels like an artist's dream.

Copious castle snaps coming soon.

In the meantime, check out this cool video on the "Making of" the Chorvatska mosaic wall, by Free Mozaik.  

My Romantic Weekend in Paris

Ahhhh, c’est l’amour!  Pa-ree has a certain, “Je ne sais quoi”; a magical charm that entrances even the insufferable.  Everywhere you go, you see couples suctioned together, alternating between sipping champagne and eating each other’s faces.  It’s truly romantic, even for a solo traveler.

At first I was unconvinced, but by day 3 the city had me.  I love traveling alone (sometimes) because you learn a lot about yourself.  I had several epiphanies over the weekend and am happy to share them.  

Paris museums are the best! (in the world) (that I’ve seen so far).  

Granted, I haven’t traveled THAT much, but ‘ces musées sont magnifiques’!  I only went to 4: Musee Rodin, Le Louvre, Musee d’Orsay and Musee d’Orangerie.  Sure, the Uffizi in Florence is incredible, and I have not been to Spain yet.  And, no offense to all the beautiful National Galleries in the States, and the sweet museums in South America. But, kilogram for kilogram, Paris wins.  Future blog posts will cover them in detail.

Musee Rodin

Le Louvre

Musee d'Orsay

Musee d'Orangerie

Van Gogh in the Musee d'Orsay

Why am I not producing artwork?  

I mean, sure I like photography and I do design for a living.  But, why am I not drawing, and or painting.  Why have I not moved much on my animated short film?  Paris inspired me, and I need to carve out time to make my own art.  Must get on this.  MUST.

I think I could survive on JUST crepes and ice cream.  

You can put a lot of good things into crepes, from proteins to greens.  And, I probably wouldn’t have that many sweet crepes.  I’d save my sweet tooth for ice cream.  

The second time I got a sweet crepe, it backfired on me.  I call this next snap: Whipped Cream Broken Dream

Four years of French lost and FOUND!  

When I first got off the train, I tried to purchase a Metro ticket and was lost.  A man tried to help me but I could not understand a word he said.  And, the kiosk would not take a card---only Euros.  I gave up and decided I’d walk the ~6 kilometers to my hotel.  

Four months of Spanish speaking countries was easy.  But, now I had a bit of a panic realizing that I could not remember a single word of French.  It was like all my memory space for foreign words was overwritten in Spanish.  I would say Gracias, instead of merci.  And, Si instead of Oui.  

But, funny thing.  Throughout the weekend, French words and phrases would just popped into my head.  I would see a sign and it would trigger a set of words that was previously lost.  By the end of the weekend, I was actually conversing with a couple Parisiens.  “Il n'y a pas de photographie dans cette chambre?”  

Parisiens hate when you butcher their language.  

If looks could kill.  Wow, the looks on peoples’ faces when I would try to order my crepe or ice cream in French.  Their eyebrows would furl, the lips would purse, and the looks of contempt was sharp as knives.  It was actually quite funny and it did not stop me from trying to practice.  I’d just say something really animated like, “C’est très bon!” and try to get them to smile.  Sometimes it worked.  Other times, not so much.  

There's no stopping selfie sticks.

It's hard for me not to look at selfie sticks with slight disdain, even though, I think they are very handy and I love it when a friend of mine has one (Mike Dasalla).   But, I wonder...what's the difference between a selfie stick an a tripod?  I walk around with a tripod.  Do people find that obnoxious?  

What do you think of selfie sticks?  

But, more importantly, what are Hillary Clinton and Donald Trump's stances on selfie sticks?  

A lot of taxi drivers dress like limo drivers.  

Keepin’ it classy.  Well played, Paris.

French Onion Soup tastes like French Onion Soup

Tried it at one restaurant and it tasted exactly the same as it does in the United States.  But, the baguette that it was served with was way better.

Baguettes are better in Paris.  <EOM>

Macrons are magical.  

They're a textural thrill ride!  They live up to the hype in every single way.  I imagine all macrons in the world are made by Master Chef Junior winner, Chef Nathan Odom. 

I’ve got a lot of passion for Paris.  The romance is real.  The city has got a major love lock on me.  Au revoir, mon amour!

First Time in France: Bastille Day

Last Thursday, I rode the high speed Eurostar train from London to Paris as a little birthday present to myself.  Made it just in time for the Bastille Day (Night) celebration.  Truly a shame what happened in Nice.  :[  Thankfully, Paris was at peace.  

Hotel concierge told me where to go to watch the fireworks over the Eiffel Tower.  I didn’t have time to get to the Trocadero, but my hotel was near l’Arc de Triomphe, and I figured this could be a decent spot to set up my tripod.  

Scoped out a spot with the Arc on the left, Eiffel on right, moon in sight.  This was suiting up to be a perfect 'long-exposure-double-famous-monument-fireworks-photo-phenomena'.

Not a bad view!

Long exposure could be cool, light trails of cars, and fireworks off in distance...

But, as soon as the show started, ALL the cars driving around the Place Charles de Gaulle circle just STOPPED.  Right in the middle of the roundabout to watch the show.  Completely blocked my view.

And then, people started popping up out of their sunroofs like Whack a Moles.

Photo phenomena fizzled.  Packed up the tripod...plan B.  

It’s really tough finding a spot to watch fireworks when 90% are watching the show through the lens of their smartphones.  You can imagine the looks on the French faces as this American is getting in the way of their precious iPhone videos.  No poker faces in Paris -- if they don’t like you, it’ll be obvious.  

I improvised and feel like I got a couple decent snaps.  Of course, it would have been sweet to be closer, and get some long exposure goodness.  But, just happy Paris was a peaceful place.

The show was pretty impressive, fireworks shooting out of the top of the Tower.

And it felt like there were 3 distinct finales.  Love fireworks!  (Especially when they're not at 7am, Cusco.)

So much more to say about my Parisian adventure...stay tuned... 

The Sloandog Millionaire Two Peaks Challenge for Remotes that Want to Hike Good (and Do Other Things Good, Too)

A brook in Scafell Pike, England

The weekend was originally supposed to be the Three Peaks Challenge: hike the 3 tallest peaks in the UK in 24 hours.  Snowdon in Wales; Scafell Pike in England; and Ben Nevis in Scotland.  DJ Jeff Sloan was the organizer but due to last minute logistics, we ran the option play and were presented with The Sloandog Millionaire Two Peaks Challenge for Remotes that Want to Hike Good (and Do Other Things Good, Too).  

Two for three ain't bad!

The Sloandog Millionaire, really strong beard game

or some reason, I/we did not research hiking climate conditions in the UK in July.  I think we were just overly exuberant to go on an excursion.

The Challenge Competitors: L to R: Kelly, Jeff, Paige, JP (Bottom), Me, Miranda & Johnson

IMPORTANT NOTE: Just because it is warm in London, does not mean it will be warm in the mountains.  

Too much rain, so I could not take photos with my good camera.  It's a shame, because Wales is gorgeous!

One exciting thing is that I got to drive on the opposite side of the car / road!  This was scary.  And exciting.  And weird.  I hit 5 curbs in about 4.5 hours of driving.  The roads in Wales are super narrow, and the curbs are not steep...they were more like speed bumps.  LOL

I didn't feel so bad, because Miranda hit 4 curbs and Sloandog hit ~4 in much less driving time.  My curb to drive time ratio was actually pretty solid comparatively.  

We drove down to Wales to hike their highest peak (Snowdon, aka Snowdonia) and the weather was so fierce that the staff could not make their way up to the peak to man the shack.  That’s how crazy the rain, wind, sleet and freezing cold weather was.  It was like a white out on a ski slope.  I did not prepare for said elements.  I thought we’d be hiking in warm weather.  Rookie mistake.  Moronic.  Paid for it.  

Us preparing for the hike.  Are we really going to do this!?  

I was completely soaking wet within 10 minutes of hiking.  But, I powered through, because I’m a champ and, it's The Sloandog Millionaire Two Peaks Challenge for Remotes that Want to Hike Good (and Do Other Things Good, Too).

Paige, trying not to get blown over by the fierce winds.

When we got to the peak, we saw two Brits dressed in proper cold weather hiking attire.  One said to us, "It's Wales in July, what did you expect?"  Well, Mr. Smarty Pants. I've never been to Wales in July, so I guess I did not know what to expect.  

No, it's my bad for not doing research.  I own it.  

Paige and I approaching the peak, up to the right.

The peak!

Yup, that's what I was wearing.  At least I had a cold weather Patagonia long sleeve underneath.

Still having a blast, level 3 fun!

After drying off, and a nice warm meal in Wales, we headed north up to Scafell Pike, in Keswick, England.  On the way up, we saw some gorgeous views of the countryside and the best rainbow I've ever seen, outside of Iguazu Falls.

We got some rest at a hotel in Morecambe Bay, England, just outside of Lancaster.  It's a coastal town, and looks very New England-y...but I guess that's a weird thing to say, since it is definitively Old England-y.  

The hotel did not have dryers for us to deal with our soaking clothes.  We tried 3 or 4 hotels and we almooost got one hotel owner to bite.  Until he saw that we had 7 peoples' clothes to dry and he angrily bailed with the quickness.

The next day, at Scafell Pike, our clothes were still pretty damp and cold, but our spirits were warm and fuzzy!  The Sloandog Millionaire Two Peaks Challenge for Remotes that Want to Hike Good (and Do Other Things Good, Too) was in reach and we intended to finish it.

The weather at Scafell Pike was less fierce, but still fierce.  There was much less rain than Snowdon, thankfully!  But, winds were WHIPPING.  

Whipping so hard that my poncho only lasted about 1 hour before it got ripped off my body.  Mother nature was laughing at us again!

Me in the red / pink poncho.

We hiked up for ~3 hours, and almoooost made it to the peak.  We easily could have summited, but timing was not on our side.  We had to get back to England at a reasonable hour, and turned back an hour from the top.  

It did not matter, because the hike was GORGEOUS.  A lot of the fog cleared on the way back down. 

This weekend classified as Level 3 Fun.  Level 1 fun is the normal things you do in life, and you don't even think about them.  Going to the movies.  Seeing a show.  Playing games.  
 

Level 2 fun is planned fun.  Going on a trip, and doing extraordinary things that you don't often do.  Rare moments.  Great memories.  

Level 3 fun is when the unexpected happens!  Like when you go on a hiking trip, and you're totally unprepared for the elements...but you embrace the ridiculous experience!  This weekend was totally Level 3.  None of us knew how nuts the road trip would get and how crazy the weather would be.  But it all makes for an awesome story and unforgettable memories.

When we got back to the rental car place, my group surprised me with a birthday card.  I was stunned, and feeling all sorts of good vibes.  Definitely did not expect it!  

They called me "Dad" because I was the oldest in the group and I was the first driver to start the trip! 

What a phenomenal group of travel mates.  We had so many laughs and so many good times!  It was the first time I had traveled with a bunch of them, and it’s refreshing to get to know people in the group that I had previously not known well.  Much love to the Challenge Competitors!

Weekend 1 was wondrous.  

Weekend 2, is PARIS.  Leaving on a train in a little bit...

London Week 1 Recap

London Landmark Twofer - The London Eye and Big Ben

After 4 months in South America, we arrived in London last Sunday for 4 months in Europe.  It’s my first time in the UK and I love it!  I’m a Sherwood & I feel at home with my people.  And, Brexit or not, clouds or not, there’s incredible vibrant energy in this city.  

Our first day in town was the Fourth of July and I chilled with friends in Richmond Park during the day. 

It was really nice to see Tanya, our fellow Remote who is now traveling on her own!  She seems happy.  :]  

The deer seem pretty happy in the park too.  

As do the birds.  

And the people.  

At night on the Fourth, we had our Remote Year Welcome Party.  Started off on a double decker tour bus, with a cheeky British tour guide named Gary who had us in stitches as we rolled around the city and he pointed out landmarks.  I was enthralled hearing all the cool historical facts about London!

The tour ended at the Blues Kitchen, where they were hosting a Fourth party for us ex-pats.  They have an annual hot dog eating contest, because that’s what we Americans do on the Fourth...I think?  (Personally, I’m a little anti-competitive eating, kinda feel like food is meant to be savored not inhaled)  A few of my friends competed, but no one could beat the girl who threw back 13 dogs in 30 mins.  Gross.  

Abby honorable mention, 3.5 dogs and Charles...well, not sure why he competed.

My man, Mike Sholars represented with 7 dogs!!!

SamTom!

JP!

A rare smiling Kois, Natalie and JSloan in the back.

After the hot dog eating contest, there was a whole lot of laughs and some sweet blues music.  

During the rest of the week, I fought off jet lag with a few well timed naps, worked a lot, visited the British Museum and prepared for an epic weekend hiking trip.  And, by preparing I really mean, NOT preparing.  Stay tuned for that story coming in the next blog post.

Outside the British Museum with DCarter, fellow Remote photog enthusiast

The British Museum, main rotunda

The British Museum houses many historical artifacts from ancient times (Greece, Egypt, Rome, Asia, etc).  One of the most notable pieces is the Rosetta Stone, which was more crowded than the bus line for Machu Picchu.  I'll have to go back at a non-peak hour.  I couldn't even get near the thing without people stepping in front of me.  Where's that British politeness?  Guess they're all tourists.

Cool thing---museums in London are FREE, just like Washington DC!  And the good thing is, the British Museum is right next to our co-working space. 

I plan on returning because the museum is ginormous and I didn't get to see all the exhibits.  

And, hopefully, I can do a better job of boxing out so I can actually get close to the Rosetta Stone.

That's week one in London --- well, actually, just the week --- the weekend story is much more rich!  Stay tuned...

Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

From left, Tom, Carolyn, Kristin, Me, Jacek, Abby and Anhton

I’m in Europe now, and South America is in my rearview mirror. (Epic montage video in the making...)  But, I never got a chance to blog about the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, which lives up to the hype in so many ways.  

My friends at AllTheRooms.Blog listed Machu Picchu #2 in the most beautiful scenery in the world! Read More

We chose the 4 day trek with Valencia Travel, which I definitely recommend.  The hike is really expensive (~$680) compared to other South American adventures, but you’re paying tourist prices, and treading on sacred Incan trails.  Only gripe with the whole Inca Trail, is that even though you pay tourist premiums, you do NOT get premium toilets.  Expect to squat in gross stalls for the majority of 4 days.

The 4 day trek takes you through several different micro-climates.  You start in the dry forest on day 1 and trek into the alpine tundra and  the cloud forest on day 2, and then into some tropical rain forest jungle like areas on day 3 and 4.  Thankfully, we didn’t get rained on.  I guess the Incan Gods were on our side.

The food is phenomenal!  3 x 4 course-meals a day.  Each meal starts with a delicious side like a guacamole plate or mushroom ceviche.   Usually, you will have a fresh fruit agua fresca to go with it, like papaya, or pineapple.  Then, they almost always give you a delicious steaming hot soup, followed by a heaping plate of mixed veggies, and a meat and plentiful-carb meal.  The food is cleanly cooked, never heavy and creatively prepared.  One day we had thai beef with mixed peppers and onions.  I’m amazed at what our cook, “Juan de Dios” can prepare while camping.  One night, he brought us flambeed bananas in Pisco for dessert.  

I ate better in the 4 days on the Inca Trail than I have all 4 months in South America!

Day 1 is dubbed as an ‘easy’ day, but I think most of us realized that our packs were heavier than we thought, and this might not be as easy as we thought.  The elevation is ~11,000 - ~12,000 feet and while we were pretty acclimated by this point, the trail features a lot of uphill and downhill, uneven stone steps.  (Not to mention, the bus picked us up at 4:30am, and because I was jamming on work deliverables, I went to bed around 2am)  By the time we got to our Day 1 camp, I fell asleep immediately. 

Day 2 is the ‘hard’ day and it was challenging for sure.  The first half of the day is an unrelenting 900 meter climb.  

It was beautiful.  When you get to the top of the climb, called Dead Women’s Pass, the views on both sides are breathtaking.  

One of the main attractions on the Inca Trail are the Incan ruins...intricately designed settlements that are partially grown over by lush vegetation.  Seeing these reminds me of video games like Drake’s Uncharted or Tomb Raider.  And, it’s mind blowing to think of people living in them so many centuries ago.

Some of our porters, or "chaskis", who carry the tents, food, gear, etc.

Trail is starting to get a tropical feel at the end of Day 2.

Our Day 2 camp in the Cloud Forest was spectacular.  

We had the best campsite, with picturesque views of the faint mountain ranges disappearing into the mist in the distance.  This was a huge highlight of the trip, even though it was the coldest night by far.  It’s ~13,500 feet up in the mountains and temps got to -6C.  

When we woke up, there was frost on the ground and it took a while to de-thaw my digits.  

Frosty!

Jacek loves llamas!

The normal 4 day trek has you arrive at Campsite 3 around lunchtime, go to bed early, get up at 3am, and embark for Machu Picchu at ~4am in order to arrive at the landmark for sunrise.  

But, our group was so fast (Our guide Victor kept calling us “Speedy Gonzalez”) that we were offered the option of pushing through on Day 3, and making it to Machu Picchu for sunset.  This would mean that we would not camp out on Day 3, but rather have to purchase rooms ($15 USD) at a hostel in the Machu Picchu town of Aguas Calientes.  The benefits were: seeing MP at sunset AND at sunrise; seeing MP at sunset when there were FAR less people; getting to MP at sunrise earlier than if we hiked, therefore FAR less people; and getting a hot shower and warm bed at the hostel after 3 hard days or trekking and 2 nights of cold weather camping.  

While this decision was somewhat controversial in our group of 7, we ultimately opted to go for it, as the Incan allure was far too attractive.  The sacred ruins have quite a magnetic pull...

We made it!

I personally was so happy we decided to push through.  Machu Picchu is a bucket list type of thing, and I don’t know if I’ll ever make it back.  Might as well try to maximize the time we had while we were there.  I got amazing photos at multiple times of day, different types of light, and it was FAR less crowded in the early evening then the following day, when we encountered Disneyland-esque lines.  

MP is not like the ancient pyramids, where there's a mystery of how they were built.   There is a huge rock quarry at the top of the mountain, and we know it took them ~60-70 years to build the village in the 1400s.  

The mysticism of Machu Picchu is due to the fact that during the Spanish Conquest, Machu Picchu was never discovered and ruined, like most of the other Incan Empire villages.  Most likely, the Incan people abandoned the area when the Spanish conquered their Empire, and the village was empty and unknown for hundreds of years before it was re-discovered in the early 1900s.  

And, Machu Picchu is simply beautiful.  Built on the top of the mountain, it has this unbelievable charm and essence that cannot be described.  The Incan people worshipped the Sun, and they constructed the village around the cycles of the Sun, with some of the temples having windows that perfectly align with the solar equinox and changing of the seasons.  Brilliant construction and knowledge of astronomy way back then.  

Sunrise!

Loves those llamas.

Incan Sculptures mirror the mountain ranges. BRILLIANT.

If Machu Picchu is on your bucket list, I highly recommend visiting.  It lives up to the hype.  If you're adventurous, the Inca Trail 4 day trek may be a good option.  There are also 2 day treks.  And, other non-Inca Trail treks like the Salkantay Trail, which is much cheaper, but lacks the Incan ruins and settlements.  

Just go.  You won't be disappointed---except with the bathroom situations.  

Public Speaking Workshop: Cusco

Last Wednesday, I hosted a sold-out speaking workshop in Cusco for my fellow Remotes.  My hotel had a sweet space called the ‘Sun Room’ which felt perfectly Zen for practicing public speaking.  

In honor of my friend and mentor: Cole GP who passed suddenly, the theme for the evening centered around Improv.  We had an interactive discussion on the difference between acting vs public speaking, and improv vs preparation.  

And, we played one of Cole’s favorite games, ‘Best/Worst’, in which the speaker must argue both sides of an impromptu topic on the front and back end of 1 minute.  Best/Worst is a challenging game, but always yields ridiculous results and lots of laughs!!!  

One thing I love is seeing people come out of their shell and shine like a superstar.  Some people claim to be super shy, but when they get on stage, they turn into a rock star!  That was the case with all 4 stellar storytellers!  

Natalie shared a hilarious tale entitled “One Grey Day”, about a first date that ended up with a smoking car and 3 fire trucks on the side of the road.  

Abe recalled a spring break story about almost inadvertently getting arrested for indecent exposure.  

Kelly shared the tale of both earning and expunging her criminal record for illegally cutting down a Christmas tree.  

And, finally, Jess had us in stitches as she told “A Story About Her Butt” and the training and preparation she took to trek on the Inca Trail.

All 4 storytellers were in the zone in the Zen Sun Room.  I’m very proud of everyone who came out to the event, and I hope they all found value in it.  I know I did. 

Special thanks to Miranda for being our event photographer!

Cusco’s Curious Fireworks Fascination

I love fireworks.  Maybe it's cuz I’m a July 11th baby, 1 week after the 4th.  And they remind me of  “Summer, summer summer time!  Time to sit back and unwind...aaand unwiiind.”  

Cusco LOVES fireworks.  Maybe a little too much?  I know what you’re thinking... “But, Matt, is there such thing as too much fireworks?”  Well, actually yes.  I'll explain...

When we first arrived in Cusco, the city was abuzz in anticipation of the Inti Raymi Festival on June 24th.  For 2+ weeks before the big sun festival, the city had parades in Plaza de Armas every day, all day long and into the evening.  

And, they had fireworks.  Lots of em!!!  

Some sets of works seem to be lit about a mile from my hotel.  Here’s a show that happened on Sunday the 19th, around ~11pm.  Just opened my hotel door, stepped outside and started filming:

But, there’s one curious Cusquenan tradition that I am still baffled by.  

(OH WAIT, literally as I just typed that, fireworks went off, 7:43pm)  

Morning fireworks.

Yep, morning fireworks.  Almost every morning, I am woken up to a series of fireworks around 6-7am.  We’re not talking a big show or anything, no finale.  Just a series of pops that lasts about :05 - :10 secs.  About a mile away from my hotel.  

This morning, there were approximately 5 or 6 sets of fireworks from ~6 - 8am.  The Inti Raymi Sun Festival is over a week ago.  But, the works keep comin'!

(OH, and there's more that just went off:  7:52pm) 

Wow, Cusco has a serious fascination with works of fire.  

I'm gonna miss Cusco!!!  But, I won't miss being woken up to fireworks.

Lastly, a short video of Patrick and I walking down to Plaza de Armas, and guess what?  Fireworks at the 0:52 mark!

Cusquenan Cuisine

Quinoa Salad, with Andean cheese!

One thing that stands out in Cusco Peru is the FOOD.  Seems like there’s a fierce culinary competition and every restaurant plays the game.  It’s probably because Cusco is a major tourist town, and they know that they have to cater to fickle, hungry American and European tourists who just got done with a 4 day hike?

Within 2 blocks of my hotel, there are 3-6 restaurants that are amazing!  Even the hotel restaurant, Siete y Siete offers some stunning dishes like the red quinoa salad (pictured above) with avocados, tomatoes, carrots, Andean cheese, etc.  

Quinoa is a big thing in Peru and Bolivia and I love it...except when they don't wash it well enough and I feel like I'm chewing on beach sand.  No bueno.  

One of my faves: La Boheme (or La Bo'M): a creperie that’s part of the Backpacker La Boheme Hostal.  I go here pretty much every other day and get crepes.  

The ‘La Rafas’ crepe is one of my faves: Blue Cheese, Local Cheese, Walnuts, Mesclun, Tomatoes and Olive Oil.  Their crepes are always perfectly crispy on the outside.  And I almost always get either the Refresco Del Dia, or Jugo Del Dia to go with it.  The Refrescos are usually made with tropical fruits like pineapples, papaya, maracuya, mango, etc.  Delicious and light!

La Rafa's

Quattro Queso con Huevo

Another favorite of mine: Juanito’s, a sandwich shop.  No big deal, right?  No, BIG, HUGE DEAL.  The Hawayan de Lechon sandwich, which is listed as a special, is easily the best pork sandwich I’ve ever had in my life.  Sliced, succulent pork and pineapple on a baguette, dripping with pork juice.  They serve it to you with your choice of about 8 different sauces.  I usually go with the pineapple sauce, and the aioli or, the chimichurri.  The bread is crispy, the juices are flowing and the flavors are bursting.  Outstanding!  

Oh and of course, I usually get it with an Inca Kola.  (Think of it like a Bubble Gum Mountain Dew!) 

I probably should mention that in Peru and other South American countries, they eat guinea pig, aka cuy.  It's high in protein, low in fat, they reproduce quickly and require little room to raise.  We did go out one night and I did try guinea pig.  (Sorry to anyone who has guinea pig pets, but "when in Cusco" as they say)  It doesn't really have much meat on it, and it requires work to get the meat out, kinda like eating crab.  To me, it's not worth it.  I'll stick to eating alpaca or llama.

One thing I will guarantee.  If you go to Cusco --- you are in for a scrumptious culinar-ay-cation!

Cousteau Community Service Day in Cusco

Yesterday, 19 Remotes hopped on a bus and headed to the Azul Wasi orphanage, just outside of Cusco.  Azul Wasi is a non profit home for at-risk children and teens that were abandoned on the streets of Cusco.  We brought lunch and ate with the kids; cleaned up the greenhouse & planted veggies and fruits; did arts and crafts with the kids; played futbol together; etc.  Also, we donated our fundraiser $ for the kids to buy warm winter clothes.  Special thanks to Arestia, Max, Kirsten, Sam & Travis for organizing this awesome event.

The thing that struck me about this orphanage was how loving and warm the kids were!  I’ve volunteered at orphanages and children’s homes before, but often the kids are a bit standoffish.  Not the kids of Azul Wasi!  They greet you with big hugs, and they are all very warm and sweet!  They genuinely seemed really happy to have us there, and welcomed us with open arms.  I think this is a testament to Alcides, the warm father figure who runs the home and creates a beautiful environment for them to learn and grow.

Alcides, introducing us to the home, and each of the kids.

I hope that our work in the greenhouse proves fruitful for the kids!  I hope that they use the $ we donated wisely.  And, I hope that the kids get more support from other groups like ours.  

When I return to Cusco, I will do my best to return to Azul Wasi.  

To Beard or Not to Beard?

One of my goals for this year is to push myself out of my comfort zone.  So far, so good.  I’ve traveled more than ever; lived in 4 foreign cities; kinda learned Spanish; climbed a 6,000 meter mountain; lost a toenail; etc.  And, now, I’ve grown a beard.

I started growing a beard because mi chica de Buenos Aires: Fernanda, said she liked me better with scruff.  Most guys in Argentina have facial hair.  And, apparently, she has always had a thing for Charles Darwin.  

Seemed apropos to Darwin: I must adapt to my environment in order to survive in South America.  More scruff is needed.

I never really thought it would work for me.  I don’t have that natural full bodied mane like a Jeff Sloan or a Brent Blum.  These guys could be on the cover of Beards Weekly.

Jeff Sloan

Brent Blum

My beard comes in patchy, and it’s a blend of calico cat colors, ranging from brown to red to white.  I tried growing it when I was in Colorado a few years ago, and when my sister saw the train wreck, she immediately called it off.  I concurred.

But, after not shaving for 2 months, I actually got a lot of compliments.  I think I blended in more with the South American culture.  Some of the Remote girls said it gave me “street cred.”  Remote Jacek said, “Yeah, I don’t like it.”  

To beard or not to beard?  Seems split.  When I got to Cusco, I shaved because I needed a change.  But, then I kinda missed it.  Personally, I think it looks good when it's in that in-between stage, like the 5 o clock shadow that almost broke the internet two months ago.  :]  

Lesson learned: It is nice to push yourself out of your comfort zone.  

Salar de Uyuni Summary

Yes, I’m in Peru, but this is long overdue.  I wrote about the film we shot in the Salt Flats of Bolivia but, I didn’t expound on the beauty of the area.  The Salt Flats may look cold and desolate, but they are warm and rich in wildlife and culture.  

We got in at night, and stayed in the Hotel de Sal Luna Salada.  The walls and floors are made of salt!

Colchani - We started in this small town on the outskirts of the flats where they harvest the salt and package it.  They have more salt than they could ever want.  And, they export it.  

They also make warm hats.  30 Bolivianos = $4.35 USD.  A smart investment because it gets chilly in Uyuni!

Incahuasi Island - In the middle of the 12,000 sq km of dried up lake (40,000 years ago) there are islands.  And these islands have cacti that have been growing for thousands of years.  Incahuasi is home to everyone's favorite llama: Chapaton.  

I felt a little weird taking photos of this llama and then eating Chapaton’s cousin llama for lunch.  But, that was part of the tour.

Galaxy Caves / Devil’s Cave - This stop on the tour was a little bit weird.  They tried to sell us on some type of small species of humans living in these caves...without any proof.  Felt like a gimmick.  'Pay us 20 Bolivianos to look into a cave.'  At least the catacombs were eerie and provided nice photo opps.

Tunupa Volcano - This island is rich in wildlife: flamingos, llamas, etc.  We hiked for a ways up into the mountain, but it would have taken 6 hours to get to the volcano.  At least the views were nice.

Underwater - No visit to the Salt Flats is complete without reflection photos.  We were shocked to learn that this stop was not part of our tour and demanded to swap it with one of our other stops.  

Train Cemetery - After leaving the salt flats, our last stop was the train cemetery.  In the late 18th century and early 19th, Uyuni was a silver mining town and a bustling one.  The trains carried minerals to the Pacific, but that industry collapsed.  And the result is a sweet antique train graveyard.  

On the way to the graveyard, we spotted a family of Vicuna  (a type of camelid), prancing around near the tracks.  I asked them if they would pose, and they were surprisingly very accommodating.  

We did a 2-day tour, but there are 3-day & more tours that include geysers, lagoons, etc.  I would definitely come back to Uyuni to visit again.  Next time, I would work with the tour company beforehand to customize a tour of only the things I really wanted to see.  

Yeah, I’d definitely go back for more reflection photos, and insist we go at sunset!

All of my Best of Salar de Uyuni photos are up on Facebook here.

Cusco Welcome Party

Kudos to Travis & Sam for planning a perfect Peru Welcome Party!  We arrived to this amazing mansion overlooking Cusco and of course a llama was chillin’ and waiting to greet us.  (Cuz, llamas are a thing here)  And the path was lit by torches.  Check out the video of our grand entrance:  

The mansion had an incredible view...

...a draw bridge...

...impressive rooms with Peruvian decor...

...a church adjacent to the house...

...a sweet little fire pit...

...etc.  

All great vibes at the party last night!  (Except when that local guy tried to steal Heather’s phone, YIKES)

Mucho bailar anoche!  (Much dancing last night)  

Here's a video of the dance floor jamming with one of my favorite songs - “One More Time” by Daft Punk

Unfortunately, the party included a “going away” for 3 of our fellow Remotes: technically 2 and a half Aussies.  Tom(Mountain Climbing Buddy), Tanya and Lisa are leaving Remote Year for various reasons…

...and they will be sorely missed.  

But, everyone has a path in life.  And, everyone has to follow their heart.  

Our group is down from 70 to 66 now.  But, Candice, Tom, Tanya & Lisa will be with us in spirit.