Snazzy Snaps & Travel Tales
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Inca Trail to Machu Picchu
I’m in Europe now, and South America is in my rearview mirror. (Epic montage video in the making...) But, I never got a chance to blog about the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, which lives up to the hype in so many ways. The following post is an epic, 50+ picture detailed account of the 4 day trek.
From left, Tom, Carolyn, Kristin, Me, Jacek, Abby and Anhton
I’m in Europe now, and South America is in my rearview mirror. (Epic montage video in the making...) But, I never got a chance to blog about the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, which lives up to the hype in so many ways.
My friends at AllTheRooms.Blog listed Machu Picchu #2 in the most beautiful scenery in the world! Read More
We chose the 4 day trek with Valencia Travel, which I definitely recommend. The hike is really expensive (~$680) compared to other South American adventures, but you’re paying tourist prices, and treading on sacred Incan trails. Only gripe with the whole Inca Trail, is that even though you pay tourist premiums, you do NOT get premium toilets. Expect to squat in gross stalls for the majority of 4 days.
The 4 day trek takes you through several different micro-climates. You start in the dry forest on day 1 and trek into the alpine tundra and the cloud forest on day 2, and then into some tropical rain forest jungle like areas on day 3 and 4. Thankfully, we didn’t get rained on. I guess the Incan Gods were on our side.
The food is phenomenal! 3 x 4 course-meals a day. Each meal starts with a delicious side like a guacamole plate or mushroom ceviche. Usually, you will have a fresh fruit agua fresca to go with it, like papaya, or pineapple. Then, they almost always give you a delicious steaming hot soup, followed by a heaping plate of mixed veggies, and a meat and plentiful-carb meal. The food is cleanly cooked, never heavy and creatively prepared. One day we had thai beef with mixed peppers and onions. I’m amazed at what our cook, “Juan de Dios” can prepare while camping. One night, he brought us flambeed bananas in Pisco for dessert.
I ate better in the 4 days on the Inca Trail than I have all 4 months in South America!
Day 1 is dubbed as an ‘easy’ day, but I think most of us realized that our packs were heavier than we thought, and this might not be as easy as we thought. The elevation is ~11,000 - ~12,000 feet and while we were pretty acclimated by this point, the trail features a lot of uphill and downhill, uneven stone steps. (Not to mention, the bus picked us up at 4:30am, and because I was jamming on work deliverables, I went to bed around 2am) By the time we got to our Day 1 camp, I fell asleep immediately.
Day 2 is the ‘hard’ day and it was challenging for sure. The first half of the day is an unrelenting 900 meter climb.
It was beautiful. When you get to the top of the climb, called Dead Women’s Pass, the views on both sides are breathtaking.
One of the main attractions on the Inca Trail are the Incan ruins...intricately designed settlements that are partially grown over by lush vegetation. Seeing these reminds me of video games like Drake’s Uncharted or Tomb Raider. And, it’s mind blowing to think of people living in them so many centuries ago.
Some of our porters, or "chaskis", who carry the tents, food, gear, etc.
Trail is starting to get a tropical feel at the end of Day 2.
Our Day 2 camp in the Cloud Forest was spectacular.
We had the best campsite, with picturesque views of the faint mountain ranges disappearing into the mist in the distance. This was a huge highlight of the trip, even though it was the coldest night by far. It’s ~13,500 feet up in the mountains and temps got to -6C.
When we woke up, there was frost on the ground and it took a while to de-thaw my digits.
Frosty!
Jacek loves llamas!
The normal 4 day trek has you arrive at Campsite 3 around lunchtime, go to bed early, get up at 3am, and embark for Machu Picchu at ~4am in order to arrive at the landmark for sunrise.
But, our group was so fast (Our guide Victor kept calling us “Speedy Gonzalez”) that we were offered the option of pushing through on Day 3, and making it to Machu Picchu for sunset. This would mean that we would not camp out on Day 3, but rather have to purchase rooms ($15 USD) at a hostel in the Machu Picchu town of Aguas Calientes. The benefits were: seeing MP at sunset AND at sunrise; seeing MP at sunset when there were FAR less people; getting to MP at sunrise earlier than if we hiked, therefore FAR less people; and getting a hot shower and warm bed at the hostel after 3 hard days or trekking and 2 nights of cold weather camping.
While this decision was somewhat controversial in our group of 7, we ultimately opted to go for it, as the Incan allure was far too attractive. The sacred ruins have quite a magnetic pull...
We made it!
I personally was so happy we decided to push through. Machu Picchu is a bucket list type of thing, and I don’t know if I’ll ever make it back. Might as well try to maximize the time we had while we were there. I got amazing photos at multiple times of day, different types of light, and it was FAR less crowded in the early evening then the following day, when we encountered Disneyland-esque lines.
MP is not like the ancient pyramids, where there's a mystery of how they were built. There is a huge rock quarry at the top of the mountain, and we know it took them ~60-70 years to build the village in the 1400s.
The mysticism of Machu Picchu is due to the fact that during the Spanish Conquest, Machu Picchu was never discovered and ruined, like most of the other Incan Empire villages. Most likely, the Incan people abandoned the area when the Spanish conquered their Empire, and the village was empty and unknown for hundreds of years before it was re-discovered in the early 1900s.
And, Machu Picchu is simply beautiful. Built on the top of the mountain, it has this unbelievable charm and essence that cannot be described. The Incan people worshipped the Sun, and they constructed the village around the cycles of the Sun, with some of the temples having windows that perfectly align with the solar equinox and changing of the seasons. Brilliant construction and knowledge of astronomy way back then.
Sunrise!
Loves those llamas.
Incan Sculptures mirror the mountain ranges. BRILLIANT.
If Machu Picchu is on your bucket list, I highly recommend visiting. It lives up to the hype. If you're adventurous, the Inca Trail 4 day trek may be a good option. There are also 2 day treks. And, other non-Inca Trail treks like the Salkantay Trail, which is much cheaper, but lacks the Incan ruins and settlements.
Just go. You won't be disappointed---except with the bathroom situations.
Public Speaking Workshop: Cusco
Last Wednesday, I hosted a sold-out speaking workshop in Cusco for my fellow Remotes. My hotel had a sweet space called the ‘Sun Room’ which felt perfectly Zen for practicing public speaking. In honor of my friend and mentor: Cole GP who passed suddenly, the theme for the evening centered around Improv.
Last Wednesday, I hosted a sold-out speaking workshop in Cusco for my fellow Remotes. My hotel had a sweet space called the ‘Sun Room’ which felt perfectly Zen for practicing public speaking.
In honor of my friend and mentor: Cole GP who passed suddenly, the theme for the evening centered around Improv. We had an interactive discussion on the difference between acting vs public speaking, and improv vs preparation.
And, we played one of Cole’s favorite games, ‘Best/Worst’, in which the speaker must argue both sides of an impromptu topic on the front and back end of 1 minute. Best/Worst is a challenging game, but always yields ridiculous results and lots of laughs!!!
One thing I love is seeing people come out of their shell and shine like a superstar. Some people claim to be super shy, but when they get on stage, they turn into a rock star! That was the case with all 4 stellar storytellers!
Natalie shared a hilarious tale entitled “One Grey Day”, about a first date that ended up with a smoking car and 3 fire trucks on the side of the road.
Abe recalled a spring break story about almost inadvertently getting arrested for indecent exposure.
Kelly shared the tale of both earning and expunging her criminal record for illegally cutting down a Christmas tree.
And, finally, Jess had us in stitches as she told “A Story About Her Butt” and the training and preparation she took to trek on the Inca Trail.
All 4 storytellers were in the zone in the Zen Sun Room. I’m very proud of everyone who came out to the event, and I hope they all found value in it. I know I did.
Special thanks to Miranda for being our event photographer!
Cusco’s Curious Fireworks Fascination
I love fireworks. Maybe it’s cuz I’m a July 11th baby, 1 week after the 4th? Fireworks remind me of “Summer, summer summer time! Time to sit back and unwind...aaand unwiiind.” Cusco LOVES fireworks. Maybe a little too much? I know what you’re thinking... “But, Matt, is there such thing as too much fireworks?” Well, actually yes. I'll explain...
I love fireworks. Maybe it's cuz I’m a July 11th baby, 1 week after the 4th. And they remind me of “Summer, summer summer time! Time to sit back and unwind...aaand unwiiind.”
Cusco LOVES fireworks. Maybe a little too much? I know what you’re thinking... “But, Matt, is there such thing as too much fireworks?” Well, actually yes. I'll explain...
When we first arrived in Cusco, the city was abuzz in anticipation of the Inti Raymi Festival on June 24th. For 2+ weeks before the big sun festival, the city had parades in Plaza de Armas every day, all day long and into the evening.
And, they had fireworks. Lots of em!!!
Some sets of works seem to be lit about a mile from my hotel. Here’s a show that happened on Sunday the 19th, around ~11pm. Just opened my hotel door, stepped outside and started filming:
But, there’s one curious Cusquenan tradition that I am still baffled by.
(OH WAIT, literally as I just typed that, fireworks went off, 7:43pm)
Morning fireworks.
Yep, morning fireworks. Almost every morning, I am woken up to a series of fireworks around 6-7am. We’re not talking a big show or anything, no finale. Just a series of pops that lasts about :05 - :10 secs. About a mile away from my hotel.
This morning, there were approximately 5 or 6 sets of fireworks from ~6 - 8am. The Inti Raymi Sun Festival is over a week ago. But, the works keep comin'!
(OH, and there's more that just went off: 7:52pm)
Wow, Cusco has a serious fascination with works of fire.
I'm gonna miss Cusco!!! But, I won't miss being woken up to fireworks.
Lastly, a short video of Patrick and I walking down to Plaza de Armas, and guess what? Fireworks at the 0:52 mark!
Cusquenan Cuisine
One thing that stands out in Cusco Peru is the FOOD. Seems like there’s a fierce culinary competition and every restaurant plays the game. It’s probably because Cusco is a major tourist town, and they know that they have to cater to fickle, hungry American and European tourists who just got done with a 4 day hike?
Quinoa Salad, with Andean cheese!
One thing that stands out in Cusco Peru is the FOOD. Seems like there’s a fierce culinary competition and every restaurant plays the game. It’s probably because Cusco is a major tourist town, and they know that they have to cater to fickle, hungry American and European tourists who just got done with a 4 day hike?
Within 2 blocks of my hotel, there are 3-6 restaurants that are amazing! Even the hotel restaurant, Siete y Siete offers some stunning dishes like the red quinoa salad (pictured above) with avocados, tomatoes, carrots, Andean cheese, etc.
Quinoa is a big thing in Peru and Bolivia and I love it...except when they don't wash it well enough and I feel like I'm chewing on beach sand. No bueno.
One of my faves: La Boheme (or La Bo'M): a creperie that’s part of the Backpacker La Boheme Hostal. I go here pretty much every other day and get crepes.
The ‘La Rafas’ crepe is one of my faves: Blue Cheese, Local Cheese, Walnuts, Mesclun, Tomatoes and Olive Oil. Their crepes are always perfectly crispy on the outside. And I almost always get either the Refresco Del Dia, or Jugo Del Dia to go with it. The Refrescos are usually made with tropical fruits like pineapples, papaya, maracuya, mango, etc. Delicious and light!
La Rafa's
Quattro Queso con Huevo
Another favorite of mine: Juanito’s, a sandwich shop. No big deal, right? No, BIG, HUGE DEAL. The Hawayan de Lechon sandwich, which is listed as a special, is easily the best pork sandwich I’ve ever had in my life. Sliced, succulent pork and pineapple on a baguette, dripping with pork juice. They serve it to you with your choice of about 8 different sauces. I usually go with the pineapple sauce, and the aioli or, the chimichurri. The bread is crispy, the juices are flowing and the flavors are bursting. Outstanding!
Oh and of course, I usually get it with an Inca Kola. (Think of it like a Bubble Gum Mountain Dew!)
I probably should mention that in Peru and other South American countries, they eat guinea pig, aka cuy. It's high in protein, low in fat, they reproduce quickly and require little room to raise. We did go out one night and I did try guinea pig. (Sorry to anyone who has guinea pig pets, but "when in Cusco" as they say) It doesn't really have much meat on it, and it requires work to get the meat out, kinda like eating crab. To me, it's not worth it. I'll stick to eating alpaca or llama.
One thing I will guarantee. If you go to Cusco --- you are in for a scrumptious culinar-ay-cation!
To Beard or Not to Beard?
One of my goals this year is to push myself out of my comfort zone. So far, so good. I’ve traveled more than ever; lived in 4 foreign cities; kinda learned Spanish; climbed a mountain; lost a toenail; etc. And, now, I’ve grown a beard.
One of my goals for this year is to push myself out of my comfort zone. So far, so good. I’ve traveled more than ever; lived in 4 foreign cities; kinda learned Spanish; climbed a 6,000 meter mountain; lost a toenail; etc. And, now, I’ve grown a beard.
I started growing a beard because mi chica de Buenos Aires: Fernanda, said she liked me better with scruff. Most guys in Argentina have facial hair. And, apparently, she has always had a thing for Charles Darwin.
Seemed apropos to Darwin: I must adapt to my environment in order to survive in South America. More scruff is needed.
I never really thought it would work for me. I don’t have that natural full bodied mane like a Jeff Sloan or a Brent Blum. These guys could be on the cover of Beards Weekly.
Jeff Sloan
Brent Blum
My beard comes in patchy, and it’s a blend of calico cat colors, ranging from brown to red to white. I tried growing it when I was in Colorado a few years ago, and when my sister saw the train wreck, she immediately called it off. I concurred.
But, after not shaving for 2 months, I actually got a lot of compliments. I think I blended in more with the South American culture. Some of the Remote girls said it gave me “street cred.” Remote Jacek said, “Yeah, I don’t like it.”
To beard or not to beard? Seems split. When I got to Cusco, I shaved because I needed a change. But, then I kinda missed it. Personally, I think it looks good when it's in that in-between stage, like the 5 o clock shadow that almost broke the internet two months ago. :]
Lesson learned: It is nice to push yourself out of your comfort zone.
Cusco Welcome Party
Kudos to Travis & Sam for planning a perfect Peruvian Welcome Party! We arrived to this amazing mansion overlooking Cusco and of course a llama was chillin’ n waiting to greet us. (Cuz, llamas are a thing here) And the path was lit by torches. The mansion had an incredible view, a draw bridge, impressive rooms with Peruvian style decor, a church adjacent to the house, a sweet little fire pit, etc. All great vibes at the party last night!
Kudos to Travis & Sam for planning a perfect Peru Welcome Party! We arrived to this amazing mansion overlooking Cusco and of course a llama was chillin’ and waiting to greet us. (Cuz, llamas are a thing here) And the path was lit by torches. Check out the video of our grand entrance:
The mansion had an incredible view...
...a draw bridge...
...impressive rooms with Peruvian decor...
...a church adjacent to the house...
...a sweet little fire pit...
...etc.
All great vibes at the party last night! (Except when that local guy tried to steal Heather’s phone, YIKES)
Mucho bailar anoche! (Much dancing last night)
Here's a video of the dance floor jamming with one of my favorite songs - “One More Time” by Daft Punk
Unfortunately, the party included a “going away” for 3 of our fellow Remotes: technically 2 and a half Aussies. Tom(Mountain Climbing Buddy), Tanya and Lisa are leaving Remote Year for various reasons…
...and they will be sorely missed.
But, everyone has a path in life. And, everyone has to follow their heart.
Our group is down from 70 to 66 now. But, Candice, Tom, Tanya & Lisa will be with us in spirit.
Hello, Cusco!
I’ve been lacking in blog updates lately because of 2 things: 1) traveling; and 2) work. I took a side trip from La Paz to Buenos Aires but I’m in Peru now! City #4, Cusco, aka Cuzco. It's charming, cute and cozy. I haven’t explored much yet but, this Sunday, I’m embarking on a 4 day hike of the Inca Trail, which leads up to the top of Machu Picchu, one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World. Can't wait!
I’ve been lacking in blog updates lately because of 2 things: 1) traveling; and 2) work! I took a side trip from La Paz to Buenos Aires for 10 days, but I’m in Peru now! City #4, Cusco, aka Cuzco. It's charming, cute and cozy. I haven’t explored much yet but, this Sunday, I’m embarking on a 4 day hike of the Inca Trail, which leads up to the top of Machu Picchu. Can’t wait! I have a ton of work to do before I go, so it's nose to the grindstone for the next few days and the reward is one of the Seven Modern Wonders of the World.
Side note: Tuesday, we celebrated 100 Days of Remote Year! We are a little over 1/4 of the way done with our travels, and just under 1/3rd. Cusco is our last month in South America and then it's on to Europe!
One thing that bummed me out big time -- yesterday, I realized that my favorite camera lens is broken. (85mm prime) This was probably my best lens, and I think maybe it was damaged when I was traveling. My camera bag may have been dropped at one point in the airport, and I think that lens was attached to the body. The threading seemed to be bent a bit and when I tried to reconnect it, it was super tight, and I think it scratched the lens contacts. UGH. At least, I’ll be in London soon and I will be fixing or replacing it. There are some camera shops here in Cusco, but I’m not expecting them to have this specific piece.
Oh well, lesson learned: travel with your least expensive lens attached to the body.
More coming soon! Best of La Paz photos! Buenos Aires side trip photos! Salt Flat photos! Stay tuned...
In the meantime, here are some pics of Cusco from my hotel:
The Cafe here at the Hotel
